Boa Constrictor Care

Heating

I generally recommend keeping boa constrictors with a hot side of 88-90F, ambients of 80-85F, and a cool end of about 75F if allowed by the size of enclosure; smaller enclosures are harder to offer a larger temperature gradient in. This can be achieved by plenty of ground space, height, or a combination of the two. If there isn't room for all of that, I do not advise allowing any part to drop below 80F.

These temperatures can be achieved by using an ambient heater, such as an RHP, CHE, halogen, or Tungsten bulb. I do not recommend any non-white colored bulbs at all, and any lights should be on a timer to shut off at night for a proper day/night cycle. You can also use belly heat only, such as heat mats or heat tape, so long as the enclosure is kept in a dedicated and heated room to a minimum of 75F. I do not recommend heat cable or heat rocks whatsoever, even with a thermostat.

All heat sources must be controlled with a thermostat; dimmers and rheostats are not adequate as they require the constant attention of the keeper to maintain temperatures.

Humidity

Boas are a tropical species, and benefit from higher humidity. I generally recommend at least 70-80% humidity, whether in shed or not. This can be achieved in a variety of ways, and depends heavily on the area you live in and the particular set up you're using. Some general tips to help if you notice issues achieving a higher humidity:

If using a screen top enclosure, be sure to block off as much of the screen as you can to reduce how much moisture escapes out of the top, while allowing some fresh air in.
Use a high humidity bedding, such coconut coir, coconut chips, or sphagnum moss. These can also be used in any combination.
Offer a large water dish.
Use a humidifier in the room to raise the RH.
Offer a humid hide with wet substrate that is changed regularly to avoid mold.

Feeding

I recommend frozen/thawed (f/t) feeders for all snakes, for the safety of the snakes, humane handling of the feeders, ease on your wallet, and convenience of not having to hunt down a source every feeding day.

I take a more conservative approach with my animals, preferring slow growth if it means my animals are healthy. With that in mind, these are strictly just recommendations with that goal in mind. I will adjust feeding based on the individual's needs throughout the year, and this guideline is mainly for pet animals and not breeders.

I keep prey size small, especially for adults. For babies, I aim for meals roughly equal to girth or slightly larger. There shouldn't be any scale separation and the bulge should be gone in 24-48 hours. Adults, I want meals smaller than girth so that there's no noticeable bulge at all.

Frequency depends on the size of prey:

All mice (or equivalent sized prey) go 10-14 days
Weaned rats (~20-40 grams) and equivalent sized prey go 14+ days
Small rats (~40-80 grams) and equivalent sized prey go 2-3 weeks
Medium rats (~80-150 grams) and equivalent sized prey go 3-4 weeks
Large rats (~150-300 grams) and equivalent sized prey go 4-6 weeks
XL/jumbo (no more than 400 grams) go 6-8 weeks

I avoid XL/jumbo if I can, only offering it to larger adults if I can't get rabbits, as the fat content is best avoided. I don't offer Guinea pigs, pigs, jumbo mice, or colossal rats at all.

A varied diet is best, if you can provide it. I offer mice, ASF, hamsters, and day old chickens/quail to young boas. Rats, rabbits, chickens, and quail to larger boas. Gerbils are also another good feeder. *Avoid any wild animals due to danger of parasites and poisons.

I also reduce feeding during the winter, feeding half as often for 4 months, for babies after their first full year. The following year, I will completely withhold food for 3 months every winter. I will up food intake a few feedings before and after a fast, and feed normal sized meals if feeding half as often.